A couple of views of a day at the beach

A Successful "Die Burger"
So, today was a very eventful day. Naomi and I both participated in "Die Burger," a cycle race that starts and ends in Stellenbosch, a beautiful town in the heart of the Afrikaner heartland about 45 minutes from Cape Town. This was our first race, and a prep for our March 8 "Argus." Naomi, as part of her "training wheels" group, did the 46 km ride, and I did the 98 km ride. We were happy to just finish, but here are our official times:

Naomi (46 km) // Seth (98 km)
Time 2:05:07 // 3:37:36
Overall 512th out of 1052 // 2095th out of 3599
Gender 141st out of 392 // 1831st out of 2929
Age Group 17th out of 47 // 160th out of 272

Who said 2095th is not something to be proud of! It was a gorgeous day, but unfortunately, we forgot the camera. So, you'll just have to take our word for it!


Different Views on a Day at the Beach: Hout Bay and Llandudno
BUT, I want to reflect on last Sunday. That was the day that Maya's 6th grade class was having a picnic on the beach in Llandudno. Llandudno is just over the hill from us. Driving west, we crest the mountain at "Constantianek" and then come down the hill to Hout Bay --a beautiful beach town with great restaurants and a slight counter-culture feel. Then, from Hout Bay, you drive north over a hill, and come to this gorgeous, little beach town called "Llandudno." Here's a picture:
Well, we had a fantastic morning on the beach: playing rugby with Maya's teacher and her classmates (including her American visiting student teaching, Mr. Jacob from Michigan), taking a very cold dip in the Atlantic, and soaking in some beautiful sunshine. It was a great day.

But, things weren't so nice for other folks just over the hill in Hout Bay. It turns out that on Friday, two days before our visit, a fire broke-out in the Hout Bay township (yes, every gorgeous town here has an not-so-gorgeous township, with shacks crowded one an another, dirt roads, and minimal services --electricity, but no piped water, except for at a few communal spigots). This fire completely destroyed 250 shacks. That means 1,000 people were homeless, and lost everything that they had, except the clothes on their back. On Saturday, the day after the fire, the government was handing out "shack starter kits," which includes lumber and tin sheets for the roof. As we drove through town on our way home from the beach on Sunday, we saw a number of people carrying tin and wood up the hill, to begin the rebuilding process. (Addendum: I just heard on the radio that 2000 additional people are homeless, from 3 different fires that swept through 3 townships in and around Cape Town. Clearly, this is a significant problem.)

Well, on Monday morning, things got crazy. It turns out, a number of families had started to build their new shacks, not on their old spots, but on empty land that been designated for a new affordable housing development, still in the works (that's a whole nother story! Often, these projects take forever, and expectations rise leading to anger and frustration). So, when people had the chance to rebuild, they stretched their property lines a bit, and were building on the land that was to become the new development. Well, first thing Monday morning, the police came by and made them take everything down. Before you knew it, there were gun shots, and a number of people were hurt. Police claimed they were fired upon with guns and flares. The residents claimed the police started the shooting. As a protest, the residents started burning tires on the road, to keep the police out of the neighborhood. Here is a picture from the Cape Times, the next morning:

As I shared the picture, and the story, with colleagues at UWC and UCT, their comments were very telling. For one, the picture took them back to the 1980s, when these kinds of tire-burning protests were almost a daily occurrence. Community protests to keep the police OUT of a neighborhood, and try to reclaim some space. As I spoke about how I felt strange having spent a luciously relaxing time at the beach, only minutes away from this tension and struggle, she said: "I can remember a time, not too long ago, when people weren't allowed on the beach! It is amazing we've come this far!"

It just shows you how our perspective, without the history, is so different. The fact that anyone can go onto the beach in Llandudno IS a major accomplishment. Yes. But in reality, who is really using the beach? You don't see many black families on the beach. Especially when they are busy building, rebuilding, staking a claim to space, and still protesting for a decent quality of life. Maybe that's why this picture is so powerful. It was taken by Maya's teacher. Some of her classmates on the beach. The new South Africa, in the process of being born. Without the history, we might not appreciate the significance of this image. Blog ya later.

Seth./.

Cycling Past (and into) History

Yesterday, two bike-riding mates and I did a practice 100 km ride on the "Die Burger" route. Next Sunday, we'll be riding the route in the real "Die Burger" race, which will give us a seeding time for the big Cape Argus race on March 8. We'll be among 8,000 others in the on the route through the winelands around Stellenbosch. Yesterday was nice, just us three!


It was a gorgeous day, blue sky and no wind. We started at 6:30 am, and were able to stop along the way and take some pics. After the first climb over "Hells Hoogte" (Hell's Heights"), we had a beautiful ride through the vineyards and villages, through Pniel, Fraschoek, and Paarl. Then we turned a corner, and we were at Drackenstein Prison. This is where Nelson Mandela was held for the last couple of years of his imprisonment, and the place from which he was eventually released. In August 2008, this statue was placed at the entrance.

We stopped to take pictures, and as we did, a guard came out to tell us that we weren't allowed to stand on the sculpture. He said that this was an important monument that we needed to respect, so that generations of South Africans could come and appreciate it. His demeanor was appropriately stern and serious. We apologized and thanked him, and then he showed us the inscription on the side of the monument. Quotes from Mandela.

Pretty powerful.

But, we couldn't leave without a moment of solidarity.

Amandela.

The rest of the ride was wonderful from a training standpoint. We finished the 100 ks in 4 hours and 29 seconds, which was just what we had hoped, though no world record. Now we know the route, we know all the hills, and so we'll be ready for next Sunday's race. Also, we won't need to stop and take pictures then. Though as we ride by, I'll surely give a raised fist in solidarity.

I love this quote from the sculpture, and think it is worth repeating:

"For to be free is not merely to cast off one's chains,

but to live in a way that respects and enhances the freedom of others."

-Mandela

Blog ya later.

Seth./.

Mikey's Train and Springbok vs. Protea Redux

Here are a couple of stories that will connect back to earlier blogs.

So, Where's the Train to Mikey's Fontain (see November 10)
So, when I came back to work from our weekend at Mikey's Fontein, I of course told everybody about our trip. One of my colleagues at UCT, Janice, said: "But how did you get back? Did you take the train? I've been wanting to go to Mikey's Fontein for an overnight, but when I call to get information from the train, they tell me there's no return train until Tuesday. How did you get back?"

Well, I told her all about the train trip, and the daily service that connects Johannesburg and Cape Town, stopping in Mikey's. Seemed pretty basic to me. But Janice insisted that when she's called to get information about the train, they tell her she has to come back on Tuesday.

So, I said I'd call Ross, the man who organized the weekend, and get all the scoop. And, I'd even have Ross give her a call with the details. So, I called Ross. Now mind you, Ross is a "fontein" of information on travel in South Africa. He is our #1 trip advisor, knows all the cool spots, and has yet to let us down. He's also world's #1 braai-meister! So I call Ross, and he says: "That's funny, because I also had trouble finding out about the train back from Mikey's Fontein. Whenever I called the train company, they would tell me that the only return train is on Tuesday. And then I would call the hotel in Mikey's, and they would say that there's a train every day. So, I finally called back the train folks, and told them that the folks at Mikey's say that there is a train returning to Cape Town every day at 10:00 am. And they say, 'Oh yeah. There is a train every day at 10:00 am. But that is the third class train.' "

So check this out. When you call up the state-run train agency, and you ask in a nice pleasan "white" voice, you are told "no train." Why? Because the assumption is that you wouldn't be interested in the third class train. The assumption is that third class train is only for blacks. Wait a minute, didn't apartheid end 14 years ago? Isn't this now a new multicultural democracy? Yes, but even though formal rules change, cultural norms and accents, are much more slow to change. So, is there a train to Mikey's Fontain? That depends...

Springbok vs. Protea Decision, Finally (See October 10)
Well, after six weeks of nearly non-stop debate, the South African Rugby Association announced yesterday that they had reached a compromise with the national sports federation. As you might recall, the rugby team was the only national team that didn't adopt the post-apartheid emblem, "The Protea." Rather, they held on to the apartheid-era symbol "The Springbok." For many white-South Africans, the Springbok is a huge symbol of national pride, as the Springboks have won two World Cup Championships, and are the current champions. Well, for black-South Africans, the "Bok" represents white oppression, and the latent (sometimes blatant) racism that exists in the sport.

So, over the past weeks the debate has raged in the papers and in the bars. Proteas or Springboks? Even Archbishop Desmond Tutu weighed in. The conversation was made even more complicated by the fact that Mandela wore the Springbok jersey at the celebration for their first world cup win in 1995 -one year after democracy! So, many people have interpreted this as Mandela giving his tacit approval to keep the Bok alive in the name of national unity.

Things got even more inense when one white South African rugby star, whose parents had been active in the anti-apartheid movement, said that he wanted to "vomit on the Springbok jersey." Needless to say, he was not included on the team that is now touring England

So, the final verdict is a compromise, which is surely not going to please anyone. The decision was to move the Springbok from the left to the right side of the jersey, and to make the Protea the dominant symbol. However, the name Springbok will still be able to be used for marketing and team spirit purposes

Here's how it was reported in the New Zealand Herald, a current Rugby powerhouse:

"The century-old Springbok emblem of South African rugby that has been a source of pride to some and alienation to others is to be displaced by the country's national flower. South African Rugby Union bosses told sports minister Makhenkesi Stofile today that they would comply with incoming legislation obliging national teams to wear the King Protea emblem on the left side of the jersey. Stofile said the Springbok symbol won't be axed completely, although its size and position on the jersey are still to be finalised. "The minister also advised us that the commercial emblem of national sporting federations - in rugby's case, the Springbok - can be utilised as federations deem fit, so long as that use does not compromise the national emblem," SARU president Oregan Hoskins said in a statement. Hoskins will convene a special meeting December 1 to determine the details on the new emblem, which is already used in other sports."

Surely, more to come on this one.

Blog ya later.
Seth./.

Saturday Morning Cycling

OK, so we are not hardbodies yet. And, Lance Armstrong doesn't have to worry about us overtaking him on the hill climb. But, we are having a blast on our bicycles and becoming somewhat regulars with the Saturday morning Cycle Lab club. We're meeting people, getting exercise, and seeing some amazing scenery as we peddle up and down the hills of the Southern Cape. Naomi and I are both training for the Cape Argus (the largest bike race in the world, 35,000 riders), which is a 68 mile ride around the Cape on March 8. Here is the web-site for the ride. Though the race is closed to South Africans, it's still open to foreigners. Wanna ride: http://www.cycletour.co.za/

Naomi is loving her bike. We bought it used from the same guy who sold me my bike, but we bought it when the Rand was 11.2 to the dollar, and not 7.5 to the dollar. So she got lots more bike than I did. She also signed up for a training program sponsored by our gym and the cycle club. It is for folks who are doing their first Cape Argus. While its a little too basic (designed for people who have never really been on a bike, and never really exercised), Naomi is sticking with it, and she is going to be an expert when it is over.

The Medium-Medium Group
I've posted some photos from our ride yesterday. Each Saturday, there are three rides (long, medium, and short) and then 3 different groups for each ride (fast, medium, and slow). I've settled in with a nice group who do the "Medium-Medium" ride. Yesterday, the "Medium-Medium" ride was 60 km, over Red Hill (with a gorgeous view of Simon's Town in the background), then over Slangkop to a gorgeous lighthouse in a place called Kommetjie, and then back over Ou Kaapse Weg (Old Cape Road) to the bikeshop. It was a perfect day, with a little breeze blowing.

But, the best part of the day is the "after ride." Everyone gathers outside for coffee, courtesy of the bike club. So, we get to sit outside, have a little breakfast, share stories and just soak in all the good energy. Definitely, we'll be ready by March 8!

I never thought biking would be a big part of our year in Africa. Never say never! YES WE CAN!

Blog ya later.
Seth./.

40th Birthday Weekend in Matjiesfontein (pronounced "Mikey's Fontain")

So, I'll take a break from gushing about the incredible Obama effect for a moment, and tell you about our trip to the most unusual town in South Africa, or perhaps the most unusual townin all of Africa: Matjiesfontein (pronounced "Mikey's Fontain.")

But first just another moment of gushing about the election. It is amazing how the impact of the election is having a trickle down effect on young people here in Cape Town. I was wearing my OBAMA button the other day, and a young clerk in a store said, "I wasn't going to vote before, but now I see how it can make a difference. So I'm going to register this weekend." (South Africa had a huge voter registration drive this past weekend, with 17,900 registration places set up across the country.) Amazing how the election in the US can have an impact on the choices of a young kid in Cape Town. Another dimension of globalization.

A Bit of History about "Mikey's Spring"

"Fontein" in Afrikaans means "spring," and "Mikey's Spring" is a town on the railroad line half-way between Cape Town and the diamond mines in Kimberly. Back in the 1870s, a beautiful Victorian hotel was built there, and it quickly became a favorite getaway spot for the well-healed --the height of British colonial elegance. Mikey's is in the middle of the "Little Karoo," a very dry high desert region, which reminded us a lot of New Mexico. The air is dry and clean, and so Mikey's became known as a spa retreat, where you could come and heal from the stresses of the city. (The Little Karoo is now known for its lamb, which is said to have a special flavor, the result of the sheep grazing on the Karoo vegetation!)

Anyway, this hotel was the state of the art, 100 years ago. The first cricket match between England and South Africa was played there. Cecil Rhodes liked to spend weekends there, soaking in the good air. During the Anglo-Boer war, it became a hospital for British soldiers. In fact, this was such a well-known place, that there is an old Afrikaner folk song called: "Take the train to Matjiesfontein," and here are the lyrics so you can practice up on your Afrikaans:

Daar’s ‘n trein toe toe toe toe toe toe

Daar’s ‘n trein toe toe toe toe toe toe

Daar’s ‘n trein toe toe toe toe toe toe

Die trein na Matjiesfontein

Well, all good things come to an end; even British colonial elegance in the heart of South Africa. And over the years, the place fell into dis-repair, and was abandoned. Then, in the 1970s, the entire town (hotel, bar, coffee shop, museum, and post office) was bought by a famous local hotel owner, and Mikey's experienced a re-birth. You can get all the scoop at their web-site: http://www.matjiesfontein.com/

A Birthday Weekend in Mikey's
We were invited by our friends Ross and Veronica Grant to join 8 other couples in celebrating Veronica's 40th birthday in Mikey's. The plan was as follows: meet downtown at the train station in Cape Town on Saturday morning; take the train 5 1/2 hours to Mikey's; tour the town, have fun, eat a scrumptious dinner featuring "little Karoo lamb"; spend the night at the once-luxurious Lord Milner Hotel; wake up to a leisurely breakfast; and then take the train back, arriving in Cape Town Sunday afternoon.

What could be better: no driving, no designated drivers, and no kids! This was going to be especially exciting for Naomi and I. Not only had we never been to Mikey's, but this would be our first weekend without the kids. (Alex and Maya stayed with Veronica's kids, and didn't miss us a bit!)

Needless to say, we had a blast. Mikey's is like a ghost town, just waiting to come alive with the good energy of its weekend visitors. Everything is a little dusty and mildewy, but nothing a gin & tonic and some line dancing can't cure! We virtually had the entire town to ourselves. There were two other couples there at dinner, so they got to participate in our boisterous happy birthday singing. And while we were celebrating with song and good cheer in the bar, we were visited by a train-load of high-end German tourists who had gotten off the luxury "Rovos Rail" train, came into the bar, and found us all gathered around the piano, singing folks songs (both Afrikaner and American) and dancing. They got out their cameras, and must have surely thought that this was what the locals do every weekend! (We took the regular train, which is an overnighter that runs from Cape Town to Johannesburg. Our tickets cost around $8 for the 5 1/2 hour trip. The luxury "Rovos Rail" costs $1,000/day!) Oh yes, a few local families did come to the restaurant for breakfast, but otherwise, it was just us for the night at Mikey's.

I've posted just a few pictures to wet your imagination. Let's just say, South Africans truly know how to have fun! Maybe Naomi and I will bring a little of the spirit back to our own chavurah gatherings. And as they say, what happens in Mikey's, stays in Mikey's.

Enjoy the photos. Blog ya later.

Seth./.

Dawn of a New Era: President Obama Greets Cape Town

Election Morning at the U.S. Consul General's Home
We forced ourselves to go to sleep on Election Night at 11:00 pm, knowing that we would need to get up around 4:00 in the moring to catch the action with the polls closing. 4:00 am Cape Town is 9:00 pm in New York, so we knew that by then, the results of the election would be coming in. We woke up to some pretty good news, with Obama grabbing the early lead on the East Coast. We quickly woke the girls (not a pleasant scene), got dressed and into the car to go over to the Consulate Generale's house for the "Election Day Breakfast Party." We got there around 5:30, and found around 150 other Americans and Capetonians gathered around a number of large screen TVs, and a row of computer screens scattered throughout the residence. The house was decked out with lots of red, white and blue bunting and election paraphanalia, including life sized cut-ous of both McCain and Obama.

Of course, there was also an awesome breakfast spread. We made our way outside, and parked ourselves in front of one of the big screens. The girls went off to search out the fruit salads and the muffins, and Naomi and I hunkered in to watch the results come in. By around 7:00 am, they just predicted that Virginia went to Obama, and then right after that, the polls officially closed in California and they made the call: OBAMA IS THE NEXT PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES.

It was an amazing feeling. We were in tears for the next couple of hours, not believing what we were experiencing. I knew I cared, but I didn't think I would be this emotional. It was only then that I realized how much pain I've been in for the past eight years, having our country be led by someone who I have absolutely no respect for, and worse, someone who has done such damage to our standing in the world, someone who has brought so much pain to so many. Thankfully, those days were almost over.

It was truly an amazing scene to be part of. Truly historic. And sitting on a hill looking over the city of Cape Town coming alive in the early morning light, you really felt that this was the dawning of a new day. I'm sure the girls will have no problem remembering where they were when...

The Pollacks in the Media Spotlight
I guess we were a bit photogenic sitting in front of the TV as a family, sobbing. Naomi and I were in tears, and Maya was in tears from her hay-fever --but it looked good. Anyway, a reporter from the local on-line news service "News24.com" asked us if she could interview us. So I went off to do a quick interview between the sobs. Some of my statements made it into this article, which I think you'll enjoy (sorry Mom for calling you a "conservative," but I took a little artistic license): http://www.news24.com/News24/South_Africa/News/0,,2-7-1442_2421320,00.html

Also, even though my interview ended up on the cutting-room floor, here is a link to the video of the breakfast at the Consul Generale's home. You can get a good feel for the scene, and if you watch closely all the way to the end (when the speaker of the South African parliament is talking), you'll get a shot of the "sobbing Pollacks" --all four of us!



http://www.24.com/news/2008/code/US_elections_results_300k.htm

YES WE CAN! YES WE DID!

The dawining of a new day, not just for America, but truly, for the world.

Blog ya later.

Seth./.