Passionate, Progressive People, and yet...
It has been a few weeks since I've really written. So much has happened! South Africa beat the world champs Australia in criquet, in Australia --the first time the Aussies have lost on their home court in almost 20 years!
I've been thinking about writing this blog for some time now, ever since our trip to Kwa Zulu Natal. One of the amazing aspects of our trip, was that we spent two days with two very passionate guides, learning everything that they had to tell us about their passion. First it was Peter Koen, co-owner of "Extreme Nature Tours." http://www.extremenaturetours.co.za/index.htm, who shared his passion for nature and the environment with us on a 12-hour tour to the turtle sanctuary in Kozi Bay, near the Mozambique border. Then, it was Mike Nell, who was our guide to the Anglo-Zulu war battlefields of Islandwana and Rorke's Drift. These guys were both incredible. So knowledgable, and so passionate. It was a pleasure to be with them and to just soak up their energy and enthusiasm.
But in addition to just "knowing their stuff," both Peter and Mike had very progressive 
perspectives on their fields, and on the past, present and future of South Africa. Peter, the nature guide, speaks fluent Zulu, and our trip to the turtle sanctuary was actually led by a local guide from a village that is located right in the sanctuary. There is an eco-tourism program that trains local guides, and the money that they receive guiding turtle-watchers has become a significant piece of the village income. A nice eco-tourism program that really seemed to be working. Peter shared wonderful stories of how generous the people are, and how safe (a critical quality here in South Africa) the area is, and how welcoming the local community is.
perspectives on their fields, and on the past, present and future of South Africa. Peter, the nature guide, speaks fluent Zulu, and our trip to the turtle sanctuary was actually led by a local guide from a village that is located right in the sanctuary. There is an eco-tourism program that trains local guides, and the money that they receive guiding turtle-watchers has become a significant piece of the village income. A nice eco-tourism program that really seemed to be working. Peter shared wonderful stories of how generous the people are, and how safe (a critical quality here in South Africa) the area is, and how welcoming the local community is.Mike Nell, the battlefield historian, was also a fluent Zulu speaker. He grew up on a farm 
speaking Zulu with the children of the farm-hands, and had a deep appreciation for Zulu culture and history. As you might imagine, there has been a wide array of interpretations, and re-interpretations of South African history over the past few years. Of course, there is the old "party line," where everything that was seen to be good and virtuous was a result of the British/Dutch; and all things violent or corrupt were associated with the indigenous African population. The history of the Anglo-Zulu war that was taught in school significantly reflected those biases. Upstanding whites being savagely cheated by local Zulu kings, etc. As opposed to the other version of the story which shows how the British generals disobeyed their orders and attacked Zulu-land, so excited by the spirit of conquest! Mike Nell was able to share all the angles on the stories with such passion and interest, that an entire day touring old battlefields was totally exhilirating --even for Alex and Maya, who are not your typical battlefield history enthusiasts. (Though I must admit, that as we drove by other historic battlefields on our drive across Zulu-land, they happily declined my offers to stop and visit other sites...
speaking Zulu with the children of the farm-hands, and had a deep appreciation for Zulu culture and history. As you might imagine, there has been a wide array of interpretations, and re-interpretations of South African history over the past few years. Of course, there is the old "party line," where everything that was seen to be good and virtuous was a result of the British/Dutch; and all things violent or corrupt were associated with the indigenous African population. The history of the Anglo-Zulu war that was taught in school significantly reflected those biases. Upstanding whites being savagely cheated by local Zulu kings, etc. As opposed to the other version of the story which shows how the British generals disobeyed their orders and attacked Zulu-land, so excited by the spirit of conquest! Mike Nell was able to share all the angles on the stories with such passion and interest, that an entire day touring old battlefields was totally exhilirating --even for Alex and Maya, who are not your typical battlefield history enthusiasts. (Though I must admit, that as we drove by other historic battlefields on our drive across Zulu-land, they happily declined my offers to stop and visit other sites...However...
However, as progressive and multi-lingual as these two passionate, progressive guys were, there also seemed to be a limit to their ability to really understand the "other." On the long drive back to our hotel after visiting the turtles (it was 3 1/2 hours away, and we got home around 2:00 am), Peter was sharing his frustration with his Zulu colleagues, who he sees as not being able to really make it in today's modern world. He questioned their commitment to traditional values and responsibilities, which take away from their individual riches freedoms and tie them in more deeply to their extended families and community. For example, a Zulu colleague of his was pleading poverty, and didn't have money to build his own home; but, he had built a house for a dead uncle in his family's compound! Yes, his dead uncle. Zulus have a very strong ancestor worship culture, and it was absolutely critical for this young man to help the spirit of his dead uncle be well-housed, before he himself could build a home. As Peter said, with that kind of mentality, how can this country ever evolve!
I saw a similar limit arise in Mike Nell, who though very passionate about Zulu culture, also used phrases that represented Zulus as a different species of human: with very different priorities and ways of being in the world. And, that these ways truly clash with the values that "us white westerners" hold. These statements were so out of context with the other information that he shared, that they really took me by surprise.
So, this for me is the incredible task for South Africa: to reconcile western and non-western ways of being in the world, under one set of rules and regulations for the new "rainbow nation." It is going to be interesting to see how this plays out in the new election, scheduled for April 22. But, I'll talk about that in another blog.
(Sorry this took so long to post. The rest of the trip to Zulu-land was fabulous, including some amazing hiking in the Drakensberg mountains, some not-so-lucky trout fishing, snorkling in the Indian ocean, and seeing pods of Hippos in the largest estuary in Africa: Hluhluwe-Umfolozi National Park --a must see if you're ever in Zulu-land! http://www.game-reserve.com/south-africa_hluhluwe-umfolozi.html You'll just have to check out the pics that I've posted.)
Blog ya later.
Seth./.
