Monday, January 5, 2009

Seeing the "Colourful" Sites of Cape Town

Well, we're back from Mali and we've had two weeks to enjoy summer in Cape Town before our final trip of this summer break. (That's right, no moss is growing under these Pollacks' feet! Tomorrow we are off for 10 days to St. Lucia, Zululand, and the Drakensberg mountains...) But for the past two weeks, we've been in Cape Town, and have taken full advantage of the great summer weather to see all the tourist sites that we had not seen yet. Here are a few highlights.

Cape Point Lighthouse
Though we've biked past the entrance numerous times, we had never gone in to explore Cape Point National Park. This is the very southern end of the Cape peninsula, the spit of land that extends furtherst south and west in Africa. Historically, it has been called the Cape of Good Hope and the Cape of Storms. It's also the piece of land with the most shipwrecks anywhere in Africa, and there are dozens of wrecks all along this part of the coast.

While this area is known for incredibly high winds, the day we were there was gorgeous; a bit breezy, but really beautiful. We hiked up to the "old" lighthouse, which was so often covered in clouds that it did little good. It was replace in 1919 by a "new" lighthouse, which sits at the very tip of the peninsula.

We then capped-off the day with brunch at an old farm house just down the road from the national park. Ahhh...

New Year's Day Climb up Table Mountain
The most prominent feature of Cape Town is "Table Mountain." It rises 3,000 feet right out of downtown, and creates an incredible backdrop for the city. There is a tram that goes up to the top, and the one day we tried to ride it, it was closed for repairs. So, at 6:00 a.m. on New Year's day, we set out with a hiking club to make our first ascent to the top. We took the most direct root up, which is called Platterkloof Gorge. It is a 2 hour hike that zig-zags its way right up a narrow ravine to the top. Starting at 6:00, we were at the top by 8:00 --though Maya was with the fast group and made it up by 7:30, and Alex was close behind at 7:45. Once on the top of the table, we stopped for a bite, and to let all the stragglers catch up. From there we hiked another 45 minutes to McClear's Beacon, which is actually the highest point on Table Mountain. There, we had lunch, and climbed around on the pyramid that has been erected there. We had incredible views in all directions, and eventually hiked back around to the cable station at the top of the mountain.

Once at the cable station, we had an option to either take the cable car down, or... Well, Alex's knee was bothering her, so Naomi and her took the cable car. That left Maya and I to go back down the trail. While coming up was tiring, going down was downright painful! It is such a steep climb, that you are really working your knees and thigh muscles. By the time we were at the bottom, neither Maya nor I could hardly walk, as our muscles were just shot. It has taken a few days of major hot tub and sauvignon blanc therapy to get back to normal. We think we're almost there!

Minstrel Troupe Parade
Saturday January 3 was the day of the annual "Minstrel Parade." Historically, the day after new years day was the one day that the slaves in the Cape Town region had off! So, this has evolved into a huge party for the mixed-race descendants of these folks, known as the "Cape Coloureds." In seems that in the mid 1860s, the "minstrel show" made it from the U.S. to Cape Town, with musicians dressing up in "black face." Well, the locals adopted and adapted this "minstrel" get-up, and rather than putting on "black face," they paint their faces white, dress in outrageous outfits, and parade through downtown. Every neighborhood in the "coloured townships" has a minstrel troupe, and for the month of January, there will be music, dance, and marching competitions throughout the city. But January 3 is the one day when downtown Cape Town is taken over by the folks from the coloured townships, as they line the streets to cheer on the passing minstrel troupes in the parade.

While the outfits were incredibly colorful, and the dancing and prancing was full of life, two things really hit us watching the parade. First, this was the first time that we've seen so many of Cape Town's "coloured" minority out and about in downtown. You really got the sense that this was THEIR DAY! Second, we didn't bring any food because we were expecting to find all kinds of good parade junk food to be bought. You know, hot dogs, pretzels, snow cones, or their South African cousins. But amazingly, there was almost nothing for sale. We found one entrepreneurial guy who had set up a stand selling soft drinks. BUT, everyone was eating. It turns out, this is a major picnic event. Families cook food, and bring it all down to the parade route where the set up their tables, their tents, their chairs and cushions, and picnic. At first we couldn't figure out why no-body was selling food. Then we realized that people REALLY DON'T HAVE THE MONEY! Things are so tight for most South Africans, that rather than buying an overpriced grilled boerworst (local beef sausage) on the street, you'd rather make it at home yourself. Families really have to watch their pennies. So much for the parade-side junk food. (We did have a nice lunch at the cafe in the botanical gardens!).

So, What Color Are YOU Anyway?
As we were walking back to the car, we passed these two benches on the street. It took us a while to realize what was going on. If you can't read the writing, here is what they say:

















"WHITES ONLY: From the Government Gazette registration of reclassifications, 1984: 518 Coloured persons were reclassified as White persons. 1 White person was reclassified as a Coloured person. "

"NON-WHITES ONLY: Edited from the Population Registration Act No 30 of 1950. A White person is in appearance White --and not Coloured. A Coloured is a person who is not a White or a Bantu."

It turns out, we were walking in front of the court house. And as another sign said, in an office inside this court house was the "Race Classification Board." This was the official administrative office where they determined what label you should have! (You see how ridiculous the criteria were!) As crazy as this sounds, this was reality from 1950 - 1991. The sign below helped us understand what we were seeing. It turns out that this was a "living history exhibit" created by the city. What a very fitting end to our day of watching "Coloured Cape Town" on parade!

Blog ya later,
Seth./.